The first week

It's been exactly one week since arriving, though it feels like four. Life in Cairo is so different from being a tourist here. It's imperative to start learning Arabic, even just survival Arabic--greetings, one's address and cross street, bargaining--since most Cairenes don't speak English save "madame" or "hello." In the tourist sector, most do--but not on the streets. Our formal lessons won't begin for 2 more weeks, but we are busy consulting our phrasebooks (none of which agree on prononciation or the sounds unique to Egyptian Arabic). It is mentally taxing but non-negotiable.

My time has been spent almost entirely doing work at AUC; keeping house takes a dim back seat. However, I did snap a few photos of our flat. You can see the alley on the side, the kitchen, living and dining areas; the bedrooms are not ready for prime time photography yet.
It is the end of Ramadan, which makes everything slower. People are tired from fasting for almost a month, and most depart work early, around noon. That means getting administrative things done is slow, though it promises to improve once the holiday is over (Ramadan is followed by Eid, a national holiday of about 5 days). One surprise to us was the absolute necessity of obtaining a certified marriage certificate since we have different last names; Harris would be deported after his tourist visas run out without it. I had to get an HIV test as part of obtaining a work permit from the ministry of health. Thankfully, the amazing people at the Fulbright office here run interference on pretty much everything, and without the help of Ranya, Hend, and Amira, both of us would have floundered. The folks at AUC are also working to help me out--I finally got an office yesterday, and with the blessing, will have a functioning ID card, AUC email, and computer there soon.

But we have a treat coming tomorrow: an AUC colleague put us in touch with the fanatical dive group in our neighborhood, and we depart tomorrow for 5 days diving on a live-aboard boat called the Reef Master on the Red Sea, with dives in Hurghada, The Brothers, and Marsa Alam. To say we are psyched is an understatement! The next entry will probably feature some Red Sea photos.

Life here is truly different. We are learning that pretty much everything can be delivered for about a dollar, from the plants and trees in the photos of the flat, to groceries, laundry, cooked food, and anything else from a store. Though our bargaining skills are barely up to local scratch, things are cheap if you can find them. Rule of thumb: if you see something you like or need, buy it then and in quantity.
We've enjoyed a felucca ride with new AUC colleagues down the Nile, accompanied by an iftar (fast-breaking) feast, and are discovering that Egyptian food is quite delicious. Last night's dinner, ordered online and delivered, included chicken with rice and a rice green leafy sauce, falafel, sesame paste, amazing grilled eggplant and tomatos, and fresh brown flat bread, enough for 2 meals for $20. Today, we will interview a potential house cleaner, get laundry and keys delivered, and have our scuba gear picked up for the 6:45 AM departure in the morning.

BTW, we've tried to keep up with the news, particularly regarding the hurricane, and we hope everyone is safe and has power. I read today that Richmond has lost power in 75% of the city. Our wonderful neighbors in New Haven, Melissa and Ken, sent us photos of our backyard fence, now listing to port about 60 degrees (it will be fixed). Our thoughts are with everyone.