A cruise on the Red Sea

After a very busy week, we had the chance to go diving on the Red Sea with a great group of people led by Maadi scuba instructor, Hussein Ramadan--an extraordinary person. We began with a 7AM drive from Cairo to Hurghada--I tried a few photos, but take my word for it: it's all desert. When we arrived in Hurghada, we boarded a local liveaboard boat, the Reef Master. The boat was big, and decent, though it is not a five-star vessel (particularly when the electricity and airco went on the third day). But the food was excellent Egyptian food, and the group the most worldly and interesting group we have ever dived with--everyone had lived all over the world, and not in its world capitals, but places like Mali, Bangladesh, Cambodia, and worked largely for USAID and the State department.

Our first two dives were on the Gota Abu Ramada reefs about 45 minutes from the port of Hurghada. This reef system is beautiful despite being heavily dived and snorkeled, with coral heads reaching to the surface, and many smaller coral heads dotting the sandy bottom. The topography provides habitat for lots of fascinating creatures, lionfish and turkeyfish (Volatans and Radiata), gorgeous bird wrasses, Titan triggers, giant morays, crocodilefish, and the magnificent (and lethal) stonefish. I found a huge fushia stonefish on our second dive there at night.

Sunset at the Brothers

Elphinstone Reef and a giant moray

Mel atop Big Brother's lighthouse

After diving in Hurghada and checking out equipment, the Reef Master steamed overnight to The Brothers, a pair of islands (Big and Little) about 12 hours steam south of Hurghada. The seas were very rough and the diving, done from Zodiacs, not easy getting in and out. Indeed, I managed a magnificent fall wearing all my gear and wrenched my left knee badly enough to make me miss 3 dives. (it is recovering just fine) The sheer walls of the Brothers, currents, and abundant corals and fishes were gorgeous. It's known for sharks, though we saw but one. Also made a dive south of the Brothers at Elphinstone reef, with lots of current, though again but one shark.

Does this need a caption?

Another overnight steam to the Marsa Alam area brought us as far south as we went, the Abu Dabbab reef system. Very pretty, and calm. By this point, the boat's airco went out, so we napped every chance we got. Ask Harris.

After returning by sunset on Sunday, tired and smelly, we cleaned up and went to a reception at the AUC President's house in Maadi. It was splendid, large, with a huge garden, great food, and (not always available), a bar. Retired Sunday night tired but happy and are now busy getting everything in order for the week and my first classes.